Frequently asked questions about trekking tents

We use the different distinctions to separate our tent models into different categories based on the fabric used to create the tent. PU defines the tents as being made from polyester where SI and LW are both made from nylon. Differences in performance are for example weight, flexibility, and durability.

It depends on what you intend to use the tent for. Nylon is very durable and more stretchable than polyester and offers a lower weight. Polyester is more heat and UV resistant compared to nylon and generally offers a higher hydrostatic head. This is however depending on the coating.

Nordisk PU models use a strong 68D polyester which is coated on the inside, making it possible to seal all seams by taping. This makes the tent waterproof, useful under many different conditions. The fabric is also reinforced by a ripstop.

Nordisk SI models use 40D nylon with a tearing strength of 15.1 kilos, achieved by adding a rip-stop weaving that reinforces the fabric and adds strength and durability. It is sealed with a 3-layer silicone coating on both sides.

Nordisk LW models use 10D Nylon which is a light yet durable 10 denier fabric, and by adding a ripstop we achieve a tear strength of 8 kilos. It is sealed with a silicone 3-layer coating on both sides. Combined it offers a low weight and small pack size.

Denier is a measure used to describe fiber thickness of the threads or filaments used to create the fabric. The lower the denier the thinner the fabric. Denier is based on a natural reference as 1D equals silk thread.

Polyurethane coated fabric is coated on one side of the fabric, normally on the inside. PU coating is not as flexible as SI coating but has the advantage that the seams in the tent can be taped.

The lighter SI coating is pressed into the fabric so it can’t peel off. And with three layers on each side the SI coating adds strength to the fabric and makes it more flexible than PU coated tents. As SI coated tents can’t be taped due to its natural anti-grip surface, Nordisk SI tents are designed with quadruple folded seams and a cotton/poly thread that expands when wet to avoid water penetrating the seams. Nordisk always use the latest generation of European silicone.

The lower weight can be very attractive for most treks. However, prioritizing lowering the weight comes with the tradeoff of features and functionality. On longer trips and "expeditions" we would always recommend going for the more durable SI models. For races or shorter trips where performance is enhanced by the smallest details, we would recommend using one of our LW models.

All Nordisk trekking tents are actually designed as 3-season tents, but they can be used for camping in milder winter weather with snow and frost. It is primarily to keep the weight and complexity down that they are not made as decidedly 4-season tents. Also 4-season tents are mostly suitable for the 4th season only

When using a tent in snowy weather, remember to be careful to remove snow from the flysheet (also at night) so that the snow doesn't build up. Snow, especially wet snow will be heavy and might damage the tent if it piles up. Furthermore, Nordisk trekking tents do not close entirely off at the bottom, so the wind might push in a little snow. To avoid this build a small wall of stones or snow to ward off the wind.

It is not necessary to initially use a seam sealer on Nordisk tents, they can be used as they are from the box. This is because the seams are folded four times and an expanding cotton/poly thread is used to block off the seams. However, seam sealer CAN be used to add additional protection from water in the seams if you know you’re going into a very rainy climate for an extended amount of time. Consult your local outdoor store.

All our PU tents have taped seams. Our SI and LW tents do not have taped seams, as it is not possible to tape the seams of a siliconized tent due to the anti-grip surface. Therefore, we fold the fabric over the seams four times, meaning that every stitch must pass through four layers of flysheet. On top of this we use a cotton blend thread that expands when it gets wet, and seals off the holes in the fabric making it water repellent. None of our SI or LW tents need seam sealing due to this, under extreme conditions it can be utilized though.
All floors are taped.

Yes. With a hydrostatic head of 3,000 mm and taped seams, the PU tents are waterproof, except for zips and other openings.

Silicone-coated tents cannot have taped seams, so they cannot be called fully waterproof. Instead, the fabric is folded four times at the seams and sewn with a cotton blend thread that expands when wet. The SI fabric has a hydrostatic head of 3,000 mm and the LW fabric 2,000 mm, which keeps you dry in a day of rain.

Even in brand new tents you might experience water drops on the inside of your tent. Your first thought is that the tent is leaking, and it is rain from the outside, however, in almost all cases it is condensation caused by you, your equipment, the surroundings or the weather. Heavy condensation may give you the impression that the rain is getting through the tent when it starts raining or the wind is blowing.

Condensation is one of the biggest challenges with trekking tents. It happens for everyone, and you can limit the amount but never remove it completely. The biggest contributors are the ground, wet gear and yourself.

When water evaporates, it goes up into the air. As the tent encloses air from i.e. the ground, the water gathers on the inner surface of the flysheet and condensation appears. Water evaporation may come from the ground that you lie on, wet equipment, cooking or yourself and your camping buddies.
If condensation is present in your tent, wind or physical contact with the flysheet will release the water/moisture to anything that it comes into contact with, such as your sleeping bag, giving the impression of a leaky tent. This is because drops can loosen and feel like rain.

Two key factors in avoiding a buildup of condensation inside your tent is: good ventilation and eliminating wet/damp elements inside the limits of the flysheet.
Your tent often has various ventilation possibilities like adjustable ground clearance or mesh-net ventilation windows. Additionally, Nordisk nylon tents have more zipper pullers, and it is possible to open part of the door to allow more air inside. If it’s dry outside you can “lift up the skirt” of the flysheet with a stone, stick or the like to allow airflow from the ground level as well.
Avoid wet components inside your tent. If your equipment and clothes are moist or soaked through, they will contribute massively to the condensation problem, so keep them outside the flysheet under a tarp or the like to dry out.
Using a footprint or groundsheet underneath your tent can massively help you reduce the amount of condensation appearing inside your tent. Most of the dampness inside your tent will come from the ground and blocking this off you will experience a much dryer interior of your tent.

• Pitch tent to make sure there are no missing parts or faults
• Replace or fix bent poles
• Lubricate zippers with silicone
• Use repair tape to fix broken seams
• Seal the seams with seam sealer if going to wet climates
• Pack and bring a repair kit, tape, and an outer tube for poles
• Consider a footprint

• Remove all sharp rocks, sticks and logs from the ground and/or use a footprint
• Pitch on even surfaces and avoid or remove high grass for ventilation purposes
• Avoid condensation by increasing ventilation and/or using a footprint
• Avoid extreme exposure to direct sunlight
• Use additional pegs and guy ropes if wind is picking up
• Make sure the tent is stretched out for good strength and water repellency
• Avoid open fire inside or near the tent
• Leave your shoes and wet gear outside to avoid tear and damage

• Remove all mud, dirt, and the like by using a wet sponge when it’s pitched
• Clean the surface with a hose, but do not use high pressure
• Do not use harsh chemical cleaners and avoid machine washing
• Let the tent dry off completely before packing, preferably in the sun
• Before packing, check all parts and if needed replace damaged parts
• Store the tent under completely dry and not too warm and humid conditions

If a pole breaks due to a mal-production, it will happen one of the first times the tent is pitched, just from the bend of the pole when it goes into the tunnel, and/or being exposed to even mild wind. The first time the pole is stressed it will break. A faulty pole will make a clean break, where a pole under too much stress will be bent or squeezed at the broken points.

Tears in PU-tents can usually be handled on the go with a piece of Tear Aid or other such products. When you buy a PU tent from Nordisk, we include a patch for immediate repairs. Silicone based tents are not as easy to repair, as almost nothing sticks to the surface. In case of a tear a new patch must be sewn onto the flysheet to close off the hole. I.e., stitch a rip and seal it with seam sealer if it’s not too big.

Nordisk trekking tents are very wind resistant, but most being of the tunnel-tent construction means that they are sensitive to very strong and changing wind conditions. It is never recommended weathering a storm in a trekking tent, but in the case of heavy winds make sure to correctly attach all guy lines and pegs securely. Preferably find a place with a natural wind wall to make sure your tent, poles and pegs stay secure throughout the night.

The wind tunnel test is performed with fixed wind direction and is more an indication on what the tent can endure, when pushed. But in nature, wind changes direction and power. This may loosen the pegs, change the surface towards the winds, and change the pressure points on the poles. Therefore, a tent tested up to endure 25 m/s cannot and should not be pitched in heavily windy weather, as a heavy wind gust to the side of the tent can put a lot of pressure on the poles and might snap them. Pitch the tent facing the wind. If the wind changes get out and rotate the tent to face the wind again.

First of all, the main purpose of a pole is to break before the tent does. When camping in rough conditions or weather, there are many factors to take into consideration. In most cases wind. Wind is an unstable factor, changing force and direction on a whim. A trick is to pitch the front end towards the wind, and if the wind changes you move the tent accordingly.
Sometimes the wind can change in a split second, and you have no chance to move the tent. Imagine the wind pressing from the side, here you would have to rely on your guy lines, but they only support to some extent. And if the pegs are pulled from the ground (which would often be the case with loose ground), then the poles suffer more pressure than they are built to. Then they should break before the tent.

Nordisk poles for trekking tents are made of aluminum. Aluminum is a strong and flexible material for tent poles. Some of our aluminum poles are made by DAC, whose anodization process reuses the anodization liquid, reducing the use of certain toxic chemicals while still achieving high quality with a beautiful and durable surface. They are strong and flexible and offer a great price-to-weight ratio.

It is highly recommended to use a footprint with your trekking tent. A footprint helps protect your tent from water, thorns, mud, and dirt. It is you and your tent's best friend in places where the ground is rugged, wet, or dirty. Furthermore, it reduces the condensation that you experience inside your tent, as it blocks moisture from the ground. The footprints are fully waterproof and all Nordisk tents have tailored footprints available as extra accessories.

Our Nordisk footprints do not attach directly to the tent. Clear the area you wish to pitch your tent on from sticks and sharp rocks, lay out your footprint and then proceed to pitch the tent on top of the footprint. To find out which side is up or down, look for the corner on the footprint with instructions. Alternatively, look at the folding of the seams, and point these downward.

For our trekking tents we offer a wide array of different pegs composed primarily of titanium or aluminum. We have:

• V-peg: The classic V-shape with a strong hold in most surfaces.
• Y-peg: This shape has a large surface for a strong grip in most types of soil.
• T-peg: Extremely strong peg with a solid grip. Strong enough to be hammered into very hard soil or ice.
• Triple twister: Like a Y-peg but very strong yet very light peg with a strong grip in a wide range of soils.
• Skewer: The classic peg, easy to push through and easy to clean, but with less grip.
• Nail: the slim peg that will push through rocky soil. If you choose a steel nail, you can pitch your tent on any hard surface, even on very hard and rocky ground. This has minimum to no grip in soil but some in ground.

Our PU, SI and LW tents all come standard with aluminum pegs. A light yet strong material with a robust anodized surface in highly visible colors.

Our ULW tents also come with titanium pegs which is an ultra-lightweight yet strong material. A great choice for lightweight outdoor activities. These can also be purchased as an accessory to our other tents.

Yes. Here is a guideline for which pegs should be used for which terrain:

Soft ground
When pitching your tent on soft ground like grass, meadow or forest floor you can basically choose any kind of peg. A simple and basic peg will do the job, but if you have a bigger tent you may consider using a longer and stronger peg for greater stability.

We recommend:
• aluminium Triple Twister
• aluminium Y-Peg
• titanium V-Peg
• steel V-Peg
• steel T-Peg

Hard soil
For hard ground like clay soil, frosty soil or even ice you need a strong, durable peg that you can hammer or trample in. For bigger tents consider steel pegs, while aluminium is perfect for most regular tents. Shape is key where the V-shape offers maximum grip at high tension, whereas the nail is easier to use in extremely hard soil.

We recommend:
• aluminium DAC V-Peg
• aluminium Triple Twister
• aluminium Square Skewer
• titanium V-Peg
• titanium Nail
• steel Nail

Rocks
When trekking in the mountains, rocky ground is inevitable, but stones and rocks call for special pegs. Basically pegs for this must be thin, strong and light as they have to fit into chinks and cracks and often must withstand extreme conditions. The weight is often key as you often have to carry it all the way.

We recommend:
• aluminium Triple Twister
• titanium Nail

Sand
When camping in extremely loose soil like sand you need a long and firm peg, which digs deep into the soil in order to provide stability. Also the width and shape are important, as the larger the surface and the more the resistance, the better.

We recommend:
• aluminium snow and sand peg
• steel V-Peg
• steel T-Peg

The kind of guy lines that accompany your Nordisk tent depends on the kind of tent you buy. For our PU range of tents the guy lines are made of polyester. Our SI tents come with nylon guy lines and our LW tents come with Dyneema guy lines. Dyneema guy lines are made from high-strength Dyneema fibres and have a higher strength-to-weight ratio than steel.
All guy lines can be bought separately as an accessory to your tent or tarp setup.

Polyester guy line:
A reliable choice for guy line is the tightly woven polyester guy line. It offers great value for money, and even includes reflective threads to offer safety and easy identification during nighttime. Polyester guy line is standard for all Nordisk PU tents.

Nylon guy line:
Nylon guy line is a strong and durable guy rope suitable for almost every need. Reflective threads keeps you from tripping when returning to your tent in the dark. Nylon guy line is standard for all Nordisk SI tents.

Dyneema guy line:
Dyneema guy line is very durable and ultra-strong. Weight for weight, Dyneema is up to 15 times stronger than steel. At the same time Dyneema guy line is quite slim and very light. Dyneema line is standard for all Nordisk LW tents.